Even being on vacation, I cannot sleep past 5:30 a.m. So I awoke with the mountains and the early birds, the sky was pink and blue and the clouds had cleared a nice views of the range. I began to pack my gear, put back on my boots, and woke up Elise and Vesa to begin first full day of trekking. We were headed towards the town of Gomson. Our path wasn't hard to follow. We cut through big corn mazes leading us to beautiful waterfalls and open fields. The sun was hot even in the early morning. The jungles are so tightly packed that there wasn't a chance for a breeze of wind to cool us off. Without fail every village we came to, Vesa stopped for a Coca-Cola. I still don't know how he drank all that sugar in this humid environment. I would have killed over.
We passed many children in their school outfits traveling to the next town. Namaste, Namaste! They were all so eager to say hello and give you big smiles. As we were walking a few small children came out from the corn fields and began to follow us, "Sweets?! Sweets?!" They were asking for chocolates and candy. "Sorry no no sweets" and I kept moving. That wasn't going to cut it for one little girl. She grabbed onto my hands, and began to crack my knuckles as she demanded sweets. For being four or so, she had quite a strong grip! I had to almost wrestle her off and book it, I thought for sure she was going to break my hands. And that is why you should not give children candy, they go mad for it.
After about 6 hours of trekking up and down rolling rocky hills and in between jungles we came to a bridge that over looked a beautiful big waterfall with many pools underneath. We were burnt, sticky, and our backs needed a rest from our packs so we all looked at each other and agreed to climb down the hill and swim. The water was so refreshing and it over looked the vast hills down the river which we had just traveled through.
We jumped in and began to climb higher on the falls to the upper pools to stand under the falling water. But leave it up to me to be the first to get hurt. As I was climbing, my feet began to cramp from the cold water. I slipped, fell down off the boulders and hit my leg hard on the bottom rocks. Well falling is nothing new for me so I proceeded back up the boulder. But wow did my leg hurt! I decided maybe to get out of the water and make sure everything was ok, probably just a bruise. Yes there was a bruise and my shin was very swollen and I had a very very deep cut.. actually two very deep cuts. My first reaction, seriously, was to pull out a small needle and thread from my first aid kit and begin to sew my shin back together. It wasn't looking very good. But the idea of sewing my own.. well I just put a lot of big bandages on it and hoped for the best.
We got to Gomson late afternoon. Our room came with its own complimentary spider, this one even bigger then the previous friend we found. Our hotel overlooked this deep lush valley and on the other side of the river was a massive waterfall. Spectacular! We had dinner under a grass hut overlooking the falls, the rushing water and vibrant green trees was picture perfect. This night we were joined by huge beetles landing all over us and our food. How many more days until we were out of the king-kong sized bug land? Well overall it was a great second day and my leg was feeling strong so I decided not to stitch it. Phew!
May 24, we had a very long and very high ascent to accomplish today. Elise and I arose early and skipped breakfast to get some of the climb out of the way before the hot sun hit us. I had been taking Nepali lessons for a few months before I came on the trip and I was excited to pass the local farmers and ask for directions and talk about the trail in Nepali. When that sun hit it would laugh at my SPF 30 and torch my skin. We were consuming so much water as we went up, up, and up. Our packs felt heavier then ever. We were stopped by a Spanish couple who were on their way back from a 20 day trek. They were making a video of their journey so we gave them an interview, received some well wishes, and proceeded on up the rocky trails, through the jungles, over the bridges, back up the rocky trails. At the top of a long boulder stairway was a small restaurant (they just pop up every now and then) that overlooked another huge waterfall. We stopped for a meal and watched the water fall, all thinking how good it would be to jump off the cliff into the cool pool. The wonderful thing about this waterfall was when the sun hit it just right it would cast a clear and colorful rainbow all along the rock face and trees. It was brilliant. I could have stared for hours in amazement.
After lunch we began to climb up and up again. This time out of the trees and into the large fields of marijuana. They were quite beautiful and spread all over. We passed many grass hut villages along the way and stopped to watch the women prepare grain and work in the fields. It was a 10 hour day and we were losing energy towards late afternoon, which was also the steepest part of our climb that day. A soldier came out of the trees to greet us as we were moving along. They were blasting the side of the mountain, where we were walking, and he needed to move us quickly before they set off the dynamite. Good idea! He led us up a steep cliff that traversed around the mountain, high above the mountain they were blasting into. We shared the road with porter horses wonderfully decorated in colorful headpieces and bells. As I did every time I passed the horses and mules, I gave them some encouragement because they have a hard job and I appreciated much the rice they brought to the villages.
Men with big chicken cages strapped to their heads and backs also ran alongside of us and the horses, we were all trying to book it off the hills before the blasting.
We arrived in Tal around 6:00 p.m. and headed to the last lodge in town. We were exhausted. It had been a long and eventful day. The sun had finally started to set and the cool evening air was a blessing. Tonight we met Felix and Max, two young men from Germany. We had dinner with them and exchanged life stories. They were a lot of fun, first time out on their own seeking adventure and definitely had great spirits about them.
No matter how strenuous the day was or how much I wanted to toss my pack into the valleys below, at the end of the day it all felt well. My friend Bill always says something to the effect of "nothing nature is rushed but yet everything is accomplished" That's how I feel about this trek. There's no way to rush it and we can only travel as far as our bodies and minds will let us, but at the end of the day I felt that however far we got and whatever we did or saw was exactly how it was suppose to be. Tomorrow is another day of new sights and challenges. But for tonight, we are in Tal.
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
May 22, 2011: Trekking Day One
After a day or two of delay because of the declaration protests, we were finally able to book a bus ticket from Pokhara to Besi Sahar, the starting point of our trek. Our wonderful guest house manager gave Elise and I a ride to the bus station on the other end of Lakeside. Good-bye Pokhara and Fewa Lake... Hello Annapurna Circuit! The bus we boarded was marketed as a tourism only bus.. but it made quite a few.. ok a lot .. of local stops along the way. Originally five blancos (white tourists) boarded the bus. I met a wonderful chap from Norway who was taking a few months off to travel to India, Thailand, China, and Nepal. I will quickly find more trekkers who too took a few months off to travel to these Asian destinations. He was a journalist for Doctors Without Borders, and we quickly found out that we both had visits to Haiti in common so we were easily lost in conversation for the beginning of the five hour bus trip. The bus rides in this country are anything but boring. Between the loud Nepali/Indian music, the young men hanging out the doors, the windy bumpy roads, and the beautiful scenery, its quite the wild experience.
On route we kept making stops to pick up more and more people.. and baby chickens. At one point the bus was so crowded I had baby chickens at my feet, a little girl in my lap, and I was holding an old man's walking stick and umbrella. They pack these buses like sardines, the more the merrier is the mentality. And every bus driver knows the other so we made stops on the road while passing other buses just to shake hands and exchange good tidings. Over and around these windy mountain roads we went, horns blasting, music playing, people screaming over one another to talk, everyone holding on to each other for dear life. On the bus I met another lovely man named Mem. He was the head master of a boarding school in Pokhara and invited me to come teach English there when I was done trekking. It sounds like a good opportunity.. and if its my only ticket back to Nepal I just may take him up on it.
About three hours into our bus ride, we were going along this long bumpy steep dirt road around the mountains. The bus driver quickly put on the breaks, flying everyone forward by surprise. I thought maybe we had another flat tire which had delayed us just an hour before. However, this time two little old people came on board the bus. The young men who were hustling and bustling people started to herd everyone to the back of the bus. A very old and very small woman and man came onto the bus. They were local farmers, about four feet tall, and both weighing no more then 80 lbs a piece. Strapped to their heads and backs were sacks of grain weighing at least double, if not more, their weight. They were walking to the next town, barefoot, in piecemeal clothing in the hot humid weather. It was a great picture of the love Nepali people have for each other. The bus driver kindly invited to take them to their destination, without cost, saving them a day or so of walking and giving their bodies a chance to relax. They were beautiful and I have often thought about that woman and man throughout this journey, especially when there were times I was walking with a pack in the hot sun about to feel miserable. That was their life each and every day. Its hard to believe the strength and resilience we're capable of having. We just have to expect and know we're able to have it.
So we arrived in Besi Sahar around noon. We went into a little Indian restaurant to grab a quick bite to eat and that's when we met Vesa. Vesa was a man from Finland who was starting the Annapurna Circuit as well, but by himself. He came up to Elise and I and ask if he could join us for lunch. We all sat and ate a big plate of rice and vegetable curry together then headed to the police check point to register our permits and begin our first day of trekking. We were headed to Bhulboule, about a two and half to three hour walk from Besi Sahar. Not a bad little walk after a five hour bus ride. The beginning of the trail crossed a bridge over the river, climbed a series of high rocky steps, and entered into the humid and lush jungles. The sun was high and hot, and being in the trees gave us a taste of the conditions we'd be trudging through for the next few days. This day also set the pace of walking with Vesa. Every village we passed he stopped and asked for a Coca-Cola and sat down to enjoy the views. He was one-of-a-kind and I was glad he made Elise and I slow down and soak up the moment. We weren't quite out of civilization just yet; motor bikes and jeeps still had access to the area we were in so the sounds of horns over powered the sounds of birds and rivers.
We didn't take a guide or hire a porter. We were determined to carry our own weight. The Lonely Planet Trekking Book filled in as our guide, and for the most part kept us on trail. We arrived at our destination late afternoon and checked in again with the Annapurna Circuit Conservation Project. We were greeted with a warm welcome and gained our first stamp on our permits. Our last efforts of the day were to hike down and over a wooden bridge, jump a few boulders and make our way up to our tea house. The tea houses are all different. Some are very nice and new while others have a lot of history (meaning they're old) and a lot of character.. mainly big bugs! Our first room came with a view of the white mountain peaks and a beautiful brightly covered spider the size of my hand. It actually photographed really well.
Vesa fell asleep instantly as we arrived to our rooms. Elise and I ordered some soup and bread and enjoyed the peace of the river below us and the fresh cool evening air. As we were eating a goat walked into the dining room and begin to beg for food. And when it didn't get any, the bold goat then tried to get on our table and eat from our plates. I think the goat thought it was a dog to be honest. We chased it out of the room only to have it return minutes later because it didn't want to be out in the rain. Only in Nepal!
Today however we saw our first glimpses of the Annapurnas. They were brilliant and enormous. I couldn't take my eyes off of them and I was in awe that I was only seeing the tippy top of the mountains and they still made the Rockies look small. I couldn't wait to move forward and uncover more of their beauty. Tonight we could finally see stars as well.. so many of them. I didn't know what to anticipate or expect for the trek, I only knew that for the next two weeks or so I just had to climb and enjoy every minute of it. End of day one.
On route we kept making stops to pick up more and more people.. and baby chickens. At one point the bus was so crowded I had baby chickens at my feet, a little girl in my lap, and I was holding an old man's walking stick and umbrella. They pack these buses like sardines, the more the merrier is the mentality. And every bus driver knows the other so we made stops on the road while passing other buses just to shake hands and exchange good tidings. Over and around these windy mountain roads we went, horns blasting, music playing, people screaming over one another to talk, everyone holding on to each other for dear life. On the bus I met another lovely man named Mem. He was the head master of a boarding school in Pokhara and invited me to come teach English there when I was done trekking. It sounds like a good opportunity.. and if its my only ticket back to Nepal I just may take him up on it.
About three hours into our bus ride, we were going along this long bumpy steep dirt road around the mountains. The bus driver quickly put on the breaks, flying everyone forward by surprise. I thought maybe we had another flat tire which had delayed us just an hour before. However, this time two little old people came on board the bus. The young men who were hustling and bustling people started to herd everyone to the back of the bus. A very old and very small woman and man came onto the bus. They were local farmers, about four feet tall, and both weighing no more then 80 lbs a piece. Strapped to their heads and backs were sacks of grain weighing at least double, if not more, their weight. They were walking to the next town, barefoot, in piecemeal clothing in the hot humid weather. It was a great picture of the love Nepali people have for each other. The bus driver kindly invited to take them to their destination, without cost, saving them a day or so of walking and giving their bodies a chance to relax. They were beautiful and I have often thought about that woman and man throughout this journey, especially when there were times I was walking with a pack in the hot sun about to feel miserable. That was their life each and every day. Its hard to believe the strength and resilience we're capable of having. We just have to expect and know we're able to have it.
So we arrived in Besi Sahar around noon. We went into a little Indian restaurant to grab a quick bite to eat and that's when we met Vesa. Vesa was a man from Finland who was starting the Annapurna Circuit as well, but by himself. He came up to Elise and I and ask if he could join us for lunch. We all sat and ate a big plate of rice and vegetable curry together then headed to the police check point to register our permits and begin our first day of trekking. We were headed to Bhulboule, about a two and half to three hour walk from Besi Sahar. Not a bad little walk after a five hour bus ride. The beginning of the trail crossed a bridge over the river, climbed a series of high rocky steps, and entered into the humid and lush jungles. The sun was high and hot, and being in the trees gave us a taste of the conditions we'd be trudging through for the next few days. This day also set the pace of walking with Vesa. Every village we passed he stopped and asked for a Coca-Cola and sat down to enjoy the views. He was one-of-a-kind and I was glad he made Elise and I slow down and soak up the moment. We weren't quite out of civilization just yet; motor bikes and jeeps still had access to the area we were in so the sounds of horns over powered the sounds of birds and rivers.
We didn't take a guide or hire a porter. We were determined to carry our own weight. The Lonely Planet Trekking Book filled in as our guide, and for the most part kept us on trail. We arrived at our destination late afternoon and checked in again with the Annapurna Circuit Conservation Project. We were greeted with a warm welcome and gained our first stamp on our permits. Our last efforts of the day were to hike down and over a wooden bridge, jump a few boulders and make our way up to our tea house. The tea houses are all different. Some are very nice and new while others have a lot of history (meaning they're old) and a lot of character.. mainly big bugs! Our first room came with a view of the white mountain peaks and a beautiful brightly covered spider the size of my hand. It actually photographed really well.
Vesa fell asleep instantly as we arrived to our rooms. Elise and I ordered some soup and bread and enjoyed the peace of the river below us and the fresh cool evening air. As we were eating a goat walked into the dining room and begin to beg for food. And when it didn't get any, the bold goat then tried to get on our table and eat from our plates. I think the goat thought it was a dog to be honest. We chased it out of the room only to have it return minutes later because it didn't want to be out in the rain. Only in Nepal!
Today however we saw our first glimpses of the Annapurnas. They were brilliant and enormous. I couldn't take my eyes off of them and I was in awe that I was only seeing the tippy top of the mountains and they still made the Rockies look small. I couldn't wait to move forward and uncover more of their beauty. Tonight we could finally see stars as well.. so many of them. I didn't know what to anticipate or expect for the trek, I only knew that for the next two weeks or so I just had to climb and enjoy every minute of it. End of day one.
Monday, June 6, 2011
Eat, Love, Pray, & Trek
So not the most original title but there is a lot of purpose and truth about my life on the trek in it. I just returned to Pokhara this morning after a 15 day trek around the Annapurna Circuit. Wow! What an experience, amazing doesn't begin to describe the personal growth, the physical challenge, or the majestic views of the journey. My intention was to blog along the way, however internet access was very few and far between. I didn't mind though, and because of a great idea of a close friend, I journaled every day. So I'll start from the end, that is the end of the trek but surely not the end of my journey. I've always liked stories that start at the end. You're still left wondering what is to come next.
June 05, 2011 we arrived in Jomson, what we thought was our second to last stop. The day started bright and early in Muktinah,which is the next district after the pass.. but we'll talk about that climb we get there ;) Muktinah is a holy city, attracting many Israelis, Tibetans, and Indians to come and visit the many beautiful temples. It's a place where both people of Hindu and Buddhist faith can come, practice, and celebrate their religion freely with an understanding and together without objection from either side. It's a great picture of how we can believe in different ideas but still have peace.. what a concept. As per usual, we started the day with Tsampa porridge, coffee, and some reading at the guest house. After our breakfast routine, we went to the safe drinking station, filled our bottles with fresh water, checked in at the police station and then headed on down the road for a five hour trek to Jomson, where we would book a plane ticket back to Pokhara, and then planned on continuing on to Marpha which the Lonely Planet (and our personal guide) describes as the trekkers favorite on the other side of the pass.
After going through the pass, it was an easy stroll down a wide road to Jomson. The sun was hot and instead of being in the middle of the jungle or the mountains we were now in the middle of a beautiful canyon that seemed to continue on forever in every direction. The rolling hills and dusty roads reminded me much of Canon City in Colorado.. only twice the size. It was hard to keep up a good pace when my eyes kept looking straight up at the enormous white peaks that rose and shined above the red and purple rocks. Five hours to trek left a lot of time for thinking. Most of the time I would talk to myself (no shame in it) to God, or make mental notes of what to blog about. I often too thought about this idea of community, of being a body, and of each having their own part to support and contribute. What was the truth in it, why should it be shared, and how did it connect with Women Change Makers and Empowering Women of Nepal?
About noon time we stopped in the little town of Kagbeni to have lunch, reload on carbs which is all we have eaten for the past 15 days! It was about noon or so when we stopped. As we were waiting for our meal this huge gust of wind started throwing rocks at the restaurant windows just about the time I was reading in Lonely Planet that you should be out of the area we were in by 11 a.m. because of the strong head winds.. 11:00 huh.. we still had over an hour or so to get to Jomson, and about two hours or so to Marpha. Well we hurried up and ate our meal and I threw back some Seabuckthorn juice, which is from a plant in the mountains that is chalked full of vitamins and nutrients. Makes the body strong! Looking out the window we could see the dust, silt, and rocks of the trail flying in the wind. We put bandanas over our faces and headed out into the wild unknown.
If it wasn't for the heavy pack on my back I would have surely been flying to Jomson. There is no exaggeration for how strong these winds were. Being in the middle of the dessert surrounded by mountains, the wind is trapped and you could tell it doesn't like to be caged in this valley. I put my head forward and picked up the pace so not to get knocked around. It was always something, there was hardly a time when it was just easy breezy trekking. If it wasn't the hot jungles, bugs, and big hills then it was the high altitude, wild yaks, and big hills. Now it was the beaming sun and the forceful winds that helped pass the time and make our bodies work very hard. At one point when Jomson was clearly in sight I began to almost run against the wind over the dried up river. I gained speed on some porter horses and ran along side of them, shouting encouraging words to them with hopes I too would believe this soon would be over.
We reached Jomson which is a fairly large city especially compared to the little villages we had been in. The airport was on the whole other side of the city so still in the craziness of the wind we passed shops, guest houses, restaurants, and schools over the bridge to the airport. When we reached the travel agent we were relieved, out of breathe, and bright red in the face from sunburn and from being pummeled by rocks. We asked for flights out on Tuesday as we had planned to head further to Marpha for a day then back track to Jomson. Unfortunately however the only day open to fly was the next morning, Monday, canceling our plans to visit Marpha. Well that is life.
We stayed the night in Jomson at a little guest house/German bakery. I spent the evening eating apple momos and gazing up at the beautiful white and grey mountain that is Nilgiri. She is wonderful in all her glory! Monday morning we boarded a small plane and took a half hour plan ride through the roaring hills, over the green farmlands, passing the Annapurnas heading back to Pokhara. And here is where I sit and write to you.
Each day was new. Each day has its own story. Each day was full of wonderful surprises, unforgettable views, new friends, challenges of all sorts, and a warm meal at the end of the day. For 15 days I began to understand how simple our lives can be and yet how wonderful and fulfilling. For 15 days I trekked through the jungles, the mountains, and the valleys. I ate some of the most satisfying food I have ever tasted. With limited resources they sure do know how to work with what they have! I loved and befriended the guest house keepers, the warm faces of the villagers, the interesting and wonderful fellow trekkers I shared meals and card games with. I spent time praying over the communities I passed, the workers in the fields, the amazing people in the stone villages. I also spent time praying and mediating on what these people and how their lives could influence and teach me.
So here I am from the starting point, Lakeside Pokhara, Nepal and it doesn't quite feel like I've been roughing it in the mountains for over two weeks yet. I am anxious to take you through my journey so I too can keep it fresh in my mind all the moments of the days spent trekking, eating, loving, and praying. There's a quote that really explains my feelings post-trek, that I will talk more about when I get to that day in my blogging. But it really does hold value that its not about the beginning or reaching the end, but it's about the moments and steps in between that we are here, now, with the people we are with, doing what we're doing. No matter how far we get, there is still more, and for that I'm glad that this isn't the end, especially in Nepal. Every day you may make progress. Every step may be fruitful. Yet there will stretch out before you an ever-lengthening, ever-ascending, ever-improving path. You know you will never get to the end of the journey. But this, far from discouraging, only adds to the joy and glory of the climb." - Churchill
June 05, 2011 we arrived in Jomson, what we thought was our second to last stop. The day started bright and early in Muktinah,which is the next district after the pass.. but we'll talk about that climb we get there ;) Muktinah is a holy city, attracting many Israelis, Tibetans, and Indians to come and visit the many beautiful temples. It's a place where both people of Hindu and Buddhist faith can come, practice, and celebrate their religion freely with an understanding and together without objection from either side. It's a great picture of how we can believe in different ideas but still have peace.. what a concept. As per usual, we started the day with Tsampa porridge, coffee, and some reading at the guest house. After our breakfast routine, we went to the safe drinking station, filled our bottles with fresh water, checked in at the police station and then headed on down the road for a five hour trek to Jomson, where we would book a plane ticket back to Pokhara, and then planned on continuing on to Marpha which the Lonely Planet (and our personal guide) describes as the trekkers favorite on the other side of the pass.
After going through the pass, it was an easy stroll down a wide road to Jomson. The sun was hot and instead of being in the middle of the jungle or the mountains we were now in the middle of a beautiful canyon that seemed to continue on forever in every direction. The rolling hills and dusty roads reminded me much of Canon City in Colorado.. only twice the size. It was hard to keep up a good pace when my eyes kept looking straight up at the enormous white peaks that rose and shined above the red and purple rocks. Five hours to trek left a lot of time for thinking. Most of the time I would talk to myself (no shame in it) to God, or make mental notes of what to blog about. I often too thought about this idea of community, of being a body, and of each having their own part to support and contribute. What was the truth in it, why should it be shared, and how did it connect with Women Change Makers and Empowering Women of Nepal?
About noon time we stopped in the little town of Kagbeni to have lunch, reload on carbs which is all we have eaten for the past 15 days! It was about noon or so when we stopped. As we were waiting for our meal this huge gust of wind started throwing rocks at the restaurant windows just about the time I was reading in Lonely Planet that you should be out of the area we were in by 11 a.m. because of the strong head winds.. 11:00 huh.. we still had over an hour or so to get to Jomson, and about two hours or so to Marpha. Well we hurried up and ate our meal and I threw back some Seabuckthorn juice, which is from a plant in the mountains that is chalked full of vitamins and nutrients. Makes the body strong! Looking out the window we could see the dust, silt, and rocks of the trail flying in the wind. We put bandanas over our faces and headed out into the wild unknown.
If it wasn't for the heavy pack on my back I would have surely been flying to Jomson. There is no exaggeration for how strong these winds were. Being in the middle of the dessert surrounded by mountains, the wind is trapped and you could tell it doesn't like to be caged in this valley. I put my head forward and picked up the pace so not to get knocked around. It was always something, there was hardly a time when it was just easy breezy trekking. If it wasn't the hot jungles, bugs, and big hills then it was the high altitude, wild yaks, and big hills. Now it was the beaming sun and the forceful winds that helped pass the time and make our bodies work very hard. At one point when Jomson was clearly in sight I began to almost run against the wind over the dried up river. I gained speed on some porter horses and ran along side of them, shouting encouraging words to them with hopes I too would believe this soon would be over.
We reached Jomson which is a fairly large city especially compared to the little villages we had been in. The airport was on the whole other side of the city so still in the craziness of the wind we passed shops, guest houses, restaurants, and schools over the bridge to the airport. When we reached the travel agent we were relieved, out of breathe, and bright red in the face from sunburn and from being pummeled by rocks. We asked for flights out on Tuesday as we had planned to head further to Marpha for a day then back track to Jomson. Unfortunately however the only day open to fly was the next morning, Monday, canceling our plans to visit Marpha. Well that is life.
We stayed the night in Jomson at a little guest house/German bakery. I spent the evening eating apple momos and gazing up at the beautiful white and grey mountain that is Nilgiri. She is wonderful in all her glory! Monday morning we boarded a small plane and took a half hour plan ride through the roaring hills, over the green farmlands, passing the Annapurnas heading back to Pokhara. And here is where I sit and write to you.
Each day was new. Each day has its own story. Each day was full of wonderful surprises, unforgettable views, new friends, challenges of all sorts, and a warm meal at the end of the day. For 15 days I began to understand how simple our lives can be and yet how wonderful and fulfilling. For 15 days I trekked through the jungles, the mountains, and the valleys. I ate some of the most satisfying food I have ever tasted. With limited resources they sure do know how to work with what they have! I loved and befriended the guest house keepers, the warm faces of the villagers, the interesting and wonderful fellow trekkers I shared meals and card games with. I spent time praying over the communities I passed, the workers in the fields, the amazing people in the stone villages. I also spent time praying and mediating on what these people and how their lives could influence and teach me.
So here I am from the starting point, Lakeside Pokhara, Nepal and it doesn't quite feel like I've been roughing it in the mountains for over two weeks yet. I am anxious to take you through my journey so I too can keep it fresh in my mind all the moments of the days spent trekking, eating, loving, and praying. There's a quote that really explains my feelings post-trek, that I will talk more about when I get to that day in my blogging. But it really does hold value that its not about the beginning or reaching the end, but it's about the moments and steps in between that we are here, now, with the people we are with, doing what we're doing. No matter how far we get, there is still more, and for that I'm glad that this isn't the end, especially in Nepal. Every day you may make progress. Every step may be fruitful. Yet there will stretch out before you an ever-lengthening, ever-ascending, ever-improving path. You know you will never get to the end of the journey. But this, far from discouraging, only adds to the joy and glory of the climb." - Churchill
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Fine Wine and Dining ... but it can be sketchy
Namaste. I love that everyone goes out of their way around here to say that to you.
Yesterday (Friday) Elise and I took a boat out on Lake Fewa to paddle around and exercise a different muscle group from all the walking and biking we've been doing. We headed to a small island on the lake which is the home to a Hindu temple. It was beautiful to be out on the water surrounded by the mountains. It was also very beautiful and interesting to go on the island and observe the practices of the Hindu people. They're very much in love with their faith and there is no shame to display it not only in public by visiting their temples but also on their faces with the markings. Not that I want to be Hindu but I do admire their adoration for their faith, makes me want to be more bold in what I believe.
After that we were burnt to a crisp from being on the water in the hot sun and decided to lay low. I went off and did some yoga... is yoga in Nepal a hipster thing? I'm not sure but it felt wonderful!
Lucky had Elise and I over later that night for a girls wine night. It was a lot of fun. First of all Nepali wine is very strong! Lucky's sister Dicky joined us and told us the story of how their business was started. They first opened the guest house and restaurant but coming from India they didn't know much English or how to work in tourism. For example one gentleman ordered Eggplant off their menu and they literally put a fried egg on a flower :) She said for the first couple years it was actually western visitors who helped bring their business together by teaching them to cook, work with clients, how to keep an organized office etc. It was interesting to hear how the business began, not by the blood sweat and tears of the three sisters but by a collaboration of supportive visitors who saw the vision of Lucky and the others and believed in them. Nothing we do in this world is completely on our own, and Lucky's story reminded me of that. We all need each other and we can all do something to help out another, even if it's to teach someone how to cook a real eggplant. I couldn't have gotten this far in my own journey if it wasn't for my family, my friends, professors, coworkers. It's good to know that we're not completely alone on our journeys.. and why would you want to be? Dicky is quite the spark, she's so fun and just wants to dance and love on people. Her and I talked a while about how its good to have friends in all places so you're never not at home. She said she has to talk to people and has to make friends everywhere she goes or she loses happiness. She said we're all human so why not dance together?
So we wined and dined.. and I mean a lot of food. They do eat a lot around here so we had homemade salsa, chips, nuts, soup, banana pancakes, falafels, I could go on forever. But at the end of the night it was a great time to spend with the sisters. However, something wasn't right in all that food and I have spent the following 20 hours suffering from it. Yes I got super sick let's leave it at that ;) Fever, bedridden, unable to eat anything ... it's been quite awful.
I managed to work up some strength and go to the local pharmacy to get some much needed medication. Lucky came and found me and told me a film crew was in town and she needed me for the project. Prince William and his wife Kate started a foundation with their wedding and Lucky's organization was in the top three to receive the money. Their film crew was in town shooting a documentary and needed some trekking footage. So I had to put on my happy face and hiking boots and head out to the hills with some of the guides of Three Sisters. It was a lot of fun actually hiking through the jungle with the girls and knowing Lucky's organization was gaining more support. So I'll be on the BBC.. this has been a hodgepodge of a trip! But quite an honor for Lucky and I wish her the best.
Right now Elise and I preparing to leave for the trail head tomorrow! We'll begin our twenty day trek of the Annapurna Circuit and I'm really looking forward to it. Today as I was in town I was able to catch a glimpse of Machu Picchu, the tippy top in all it's glory. It was strong and mighty to say the least! Tomorrow I will be fully immersed in the Annapurna region and am looking forward to being amazed at God's creation that I hear puts the Rockies to shame ;)
We will however be returning to Pokhara after our trekking so my time with Lucky and the girls of three sisters is not over. Besides.. Elise and I are looking into budgeting a rafting trip while we're out here.. Its pretty wild so why not! Class 4+ to class 5... Hell yes!
Well I am feeling better, I managed to have some plain noodles for dinner and get some antibiotics in my system. Let's hope for the better the rest of the time. All part of the journey right? ;)
Tomorrow starts a new chapter of this journey. Hello Annapurna!
Good Night
Anne
Yesterday (Friday) Elise and I took a boat out on Lake Fewa to paddle around and exercise a different muscle group from all the walking and biking we've been doing. We headed to a small island on the lake which is the home to a Hindu temple. It was beautiful to be out on the water surrounded by the mountains. It was also very beautiful and interesting to go on the island and observe the practices of the Hindu people. They're very much in love with their faith and there is no shame to display it not only in public by visiting their temples but also on their faces with the markings. Not that I want to be Hindu but I do admire their adoration for their faith, makes me want to be more bold in what I believe.
After that we were burnt to a crisp from being on the water in the hot sun and decided to lay low. I went off and did some yoga... is yoga in Nepal a hipster thing? I'm not sure but it felt wonderful!
Lucky had Elise and I over later that night for a girls wine night. It was a lot of fun. First of all Nepali wine is very strong! Lucky's sister Dicky joined us and told us the story of how their business was started. They first opened the guest house and restaurant but coming from India they didn't know much English or how to work in tourism. For example one gentleman ordered Eggplant off their menu and they literally put a fried egg on a flower :) She said for the first couple years it was actually western visitors who helped bring their business together by teaching them to cook, work with clients, how to keep an organized office etc. It was interesting to hear how the business began, not by the blood sweat and tears of the three sisters but by a collaboration of supportive visitors who saw the vision of Lucky and the others and believed in them. Nothing we do in this world is completely on our own, and Lucky's story reminded me of that. We all need each other and we can all do something to help out another, even if it's to teach someone how to cook a real eggplant. I couldn't have gotten this far in my own journey if it wasn't for my family, my friends, professors, coworkers. It's good to know that we're not completely alone on our journeys.. and why would you want to be? Dicky is quite the spark, she's so fun and just wants to dance and love on people. Her and I talked a while about how its good to have friends in all places so you're never not at home. She said she has to talk to people and has to make friends everywhere she goes or she loses happiness. She said we're all human so why not dance together?
So we wined and dined.. and I mean a lot of food. They do eat a lot around here so we had homemade salsa, chips, nuts, soup, banana pancakes, falafels, I could go on forever. But at the end of the night it was a great time to spend with the sisters. However, something wasn't right in all that food and I have spent the following 20 hours suffering from it. Yes I got super sick let's leave it at that ;) Fever, bedridden, unable to eat anything ... it's been quite awful.
I managed to work up some strength and go to the local pharmacy to get some much needed medication. Lucky came and found me and told me a film crew was in town and she needed me for the project. Prince William and his wife Kate started a foundation with their wedding and Lucky's organization was in the top three to receive the money. Their film crew was in town shooting a documentary and needed some trekking footage. So I had to put on my happy face and hiking boots and head out to the hills with some of the guides of Three Sisters. It was a lot of fun actually hiking through the jungle with the girls and knowing Lucky's organization was gaining more support. So I'll be on the BBC.. this has been a hodgepodge of a trip! But quite an honor for Lucky and I wish her the best.
Right now Elise and I preparing to leave for the trail head tomorrow! We'll begin our twenty day trek of the Annapurna Circuit and I'm really looking forward to it. Today as I was in town I was able to catch a glimpse of Machu Picchu, the tippy top in all it's glory. It was strong and mighty to say the least! Tomorrow I will be fully immersed in the Annapurna region and am looking forward to being amazed at God's creation that I hear puts the Rockies to shame ;)
We will however be returning to Pokhara after our trekking so my time with Lucky and the girls of three sisters is not over. Besides.. Elise and I are looking into budgeting a rafting trip while we're out here.. Its pretty wild so why not! Class 4+ to class 5... Hell yes!
Well I am feeling better, I managed to have some plain noodles for dinner and get some antibiotics in my system. Let's hope for the better the rest of the time. All part of the journey right? ;)
Tomorrow starts a new chapter of this journey. Hello Annapurna!
Good Night
Anne
Thursday, May 19, 2011
Empowerment
Today is Thursday or so I've been told. I thought it was Tuesday. I have really lost the sense of time and date since I've gotten here. It's easy to do when you don't have a watch and you don't have a schedule. Hmmm... how sweet it is to be in Nepal! So this morning I enjoyed breakfast with my traveling partner Elise, porridge banana and coffee. Then I ventured off alone to explore the town, shoot some pictures, and purchase some fresh fruit.
Each face in Nepal that I see has a story of their own. I spent the morning walking to parts of Pokhara I had yet to explore. I met a great young man with a fruit stand and bought some apples, bananas, and a fresh mango. My body was craving some fresh sweet fruit and I found exactly what I needed. I walked into the north part of Pokhara and went trigger happy. Each face I see has a story of its own really even the very young ones. I shared my bananas with some small boys who traded a picture for some fruit, I thought it was a pretty fair bargain. The town is all getting ready for a peaceful protest tomorrow, a strike, about the new constitution that is to be put into effect. All the buses and taxis will be shut down for the next two days.. good thing our plans weren't to leave until Sunday anyways.
I proceeded to the Empowering Women of Nepal building around one to capture the young women trekkers English lesson. The women are in their early twenties or so and are very fun and full of life. They were having conversations on what they like and why they like it. It's funny that no matter what cultural differences or geographical differences we have, at the core we're all human. Their answers were ones I would have given to what I like and why I like it. They are very forward women to say the least and through some sly conversation they found out I spoke a little Nepali so we started to have conversation in Nepali. I felt very comfortable to speak with them because their English is just about as good as my Nepali.. ;) Tomorrow I'm going back to speak with them again to practice. It was fun to have that common ground of learning from each other, isn't that what life is all about? It was a perfect picture of how two worlds can come together and work together. Communication isn't impossible no matter who you are or where you're from. Human is Human and one way or another we'll figure out what we're trying to get across.
I did two interviews today, one with the language instructor and the other with Lucky. What I really got out of these interviews was this idea of empowerment. What does it mean to be empowered? Or to empower? It's a very bold word. Discovering that you are limitless was what the language instructor told me. Allowing yourself to see potential, to take a step forward, and to build relationships. To learn and to teach. To become what you thought you couldn't.
Enlightenment. That was Lucky's answer. But what is enlightenment? Lucky gave me a wonderful interview, she is so well spoken, intelligent, and practical in her approach to life. But really stuck with me is the conversation we had after the interview. She told me that when she first climbed a mountain everyone laughed at her. She wasn't the strongest or the most athletic, but she had an idea and committed to it. Talking with her about her life leading up to the organization she said she was always afraid of doing something different because she thought it could be something wrong. But then through time she realized that without trying you never know what will happen. And if you aren't hurting anyone it isn't wrong. But what is this idea of enlightenment that has brought her success in life, relationships, and business. She told me a story..
There was a man, his son, and a donkey. They were on a road traveling, all three walking. The first village they passed the people asked why isn't your son on the donkey? He's too young to be walking. So the man agreed and put his son on the donkey and proceeded on down the road. The next place they passed the people questioned, why is the old man walking when the strong young man is riding? So the guy thought about it, agreed, and he got on the donkey and rode on the donkey along with his son as they continued down the road. Again they passed another place and this time the people took pity on the donkey, "poor donkey having to carry both those passengers.." What is the man to do? Lucky told me she realized that she couldn't please everyone in life, and she couldn't do everything to solve everyone's problems, but she could do something. Enlightenment is being honest. And there is only three things to be honest to. First she said is God because no one sees you on the inside except for him, and he knows the honesty of your heart. The second is yourself because if you are untrue to yourself then you cannot ever be true to anyone else and cannot ever become what it is you are designed to be in life. And the third is your parents because they are a part of them and your decisions are in honor to them.
It isn't about being the best, the strongest, the brightest. It isn't about going after what everyone else wants for you or from you. It isn't about solving the world's problems. It's about seeing you for what you are, recognizing your own capabilities, loving the gifts and life you've been given, and pursuing purpose, laughter, joy, relationship.. enlightenment.
I sat with Lucky for a few hours over tea, we drink so much tea, and she just poured into me a lot that I didn't know I needed to hear. I've often questioned my motives to use film to address needs, I have also faced doubt from others and resistance to if what I'm doing is important or even necessary but what I learned from Lucky today was I can't please everyone, or prove to everyone my goals, but i can be honest with myself, my parents, and God. And in that I am doing well. Sure there is always room for improvement and growth and we should pursue that. But to not be worried about the world's judgements and doubts.
She said those who have good eyes will see the good in the world and know it is worth going after. Those who have bad eyes will only see bad in the world, and for those we cannot be worried or bothered by their doubt. We can only do the best we can. And to close it, she looked at me and said Actions speak louder then words Anne. I'm not a good speaker but I'm good at actions and I'm good at doing what I believe I can do. I think the loss of words I had yesterday, Lucky was able to give me today. I felt enlightened.
It was a good cup of tea, a much needed reassurance to continue down my own path. Leadership is about learning and teaching. Today I was definitely a student of a great leader.
So my challenge to you is to find what empowerment means to you. I too am processing it. But realize that we're not called to conquer the world, just to take a look at the practical and simple things we have at hand, and feel empowered to contribute what we can. That in itself is enough.
I am lucky to spend this time with Lucky.
Anne
Each face in Nepal that I see has a story of their own. I spent the morning walking to parts of Pokhara I had yet to explore. I met a great young man with a fruit stand and bought some apples, bananas, and a fresh mango. My body was craving some fresh sweet fruit and I found exactly what I needed. I walked into the north part of Pokhara and went trigger happy. Each face I see has a story of its own really even the very young ones. I shared my bananas with some small boys who traded a picture for some fruit, I thought it was a pretty fair bargain. The town is all getting ready for a peaceful protest tomorrow, a strike, about the new constitution that is to be put into effect. All the buses and taxis will be shut down for the next two days.. good thing our plans weren't to leave until Sunday anyways.
I proceeded to the Empowering Women of Nepal building around one to capture the young women trekkers English lesson. The women are in their early twenties or so and are very fun and full of life. They were having conversations on what they like and why they like it. It's funny that no matter what cultural differences or geographical differences we have, at the core we're all human. Their answers were ones I would have given to what I like and why I like it. They are very forward women to say the least and through some sly conversation they found out I spoke a little Nepali so we started to have conversation in Nepali. I felt very comfortable to speak with them because their English is just about as good as my Nepali.. ;) Tomorrow I'm going back to speak with them again to practice. It was fun to have that common ground of learning from each other, isn't that what life is all about? It was a perfect picture of how two worlds can come together and work together. Communication isn't impossible no matter who you are or where you're from. Human is Human and one way or another we'll figure out what we're trying to get across.
I did two interviews today, one with the language instructor and the other with Lucky. What I really got out of these interviews was this idea of empowerment. What does it mean to be empowered? Or to empower? It's a very bold word. Discovering that you are limitless was what the language instructor told me. Allowing yourself to see potential, to take a step forward, and to build relationships. To learn and to teach. To become what you thought you couldn't.
Enlightenment. That was Lucky's answer. But what is enlightenment? Lucky gave me a wonderful interview, she is so well spoken, intelligent, and practical in her approach to life. But really stuck with me is the conversation we had after the interview. She told me that when she first climbed a mountain everyone laughed at her. She wasn't the strongest or the most athletic, but she had an idea and committed to it. Talking with her about her life leading up to the organization she said she was always afraid of doing something different because she thought it could be something wrong. But then through time she realized that without trying you never know what will happen. And if you aren't hurting anyone it isn't wrong. But what is this idea of enlightenment that has brought her success in life, relationships, and business. She told me a story..
There was a man, his son, and a donkey. They were on a road traveling, all three walking. The first village they passed the people asked why isn't your son on the donkey? He's too young to be walking. So the man agreed and put his son on the donkey and proceeded on down the road. The next place they passed the people questioned, why is the old man walking when the strong young man is riding? So the guy thought about it, agreed, and he got on the donkey and rode on the donkey along with his son as they continued down the road. Again they passed another place and this time the people took pity on the donkey, "poor donkey having to carry both those passengers.." What is the man to do? Lucky told me she realized that she couldn't please everyone in life, and she couldn't do everything to solve everyone's problems, but she could do something. Enlightenment is being honest. And there is only three things to be honest to. First she said is God because no one sees you on the inside except for him, and he knows the honesty of your heart. The second is yourself because if you are untrue to yourself then you cannot ever be true to anyone else and cannot ever become what it is you are designed to be in life. And the third is your parents because they are a part of them and your decisions are in honor to them.
It isn't about being the best, the strongest, the brightest. It isn't about going after what everyone else wants for you or from you. It isn't about solving the world's problems. It's about seeing you for what you are, recognizing your own capabilities, loving the gifts and life you've been given, and pursuing purpose, laughter, joy, relationship.. enlightenment.
I sat with Lucky for a few hours over tea, we drink so much tea, and she just poured into me a lot that I didn't know I needed to hear. I've often questioned my motives to use film to address needs, I have also faced doubt from others and resistance to if what I'm doing is important or even necessary but what I learned from Lucky today was I can't please everyone, or prove to everyone my goals, but i can be honest with myself, my parents, and God. And in that I am doing well. Sure there is always room for improvement and growth and we should pursue that. But to not be worried about the world's judgements and doubts.
She said those who have good eyes will see the good in the world and know it is worth going after. Those who have bad eyes will only see bad in the world, and for those we cannot be worried or bothered by their doubt. We can only do the best we can. And to close it, she looked at me and said Actions speak louder then words Anne. I'm not a good speaker but I'm good at actions and I'm good at doing what I believe I can do. I think the loss of words I had yesterday, Lucky was able to give me today. I felt enlightened.
It was a good cup of tea, a much needed reassurance to continue down my own path. Leadership is about learning and teaching. Today I was definitely a student of a great leader.
So my challenge to you is to find what empowerment means to you. I too am processing it. But realize that we're not called to conquer the world, just to take a look at the practical and simple things we have at hand, and feel empowered to contribute what we can. That in itself is enough.
I am lucky to spend this time with Lucky.
Anne
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
Storytelling is Hard To Do When There Are No Words
We arrived in Pokhara Tuesday afternoon by bus. The next challenge was to find the Three Sister's base in the town. Pokhara is much quieter then Kathmandu, much more peaceful and content. No one seems to be lacking, the community is very polite, outgoing, and happy and the scenery is breathtaking.
Elise and I eventually found the Three Sisters house and were invited to have a room in their guest house which is right outside the center of the town. The most exciting part of the day was finally meeting Lucky and her family. They live in a beautiful home on the hill of the mountain surrounded by wild tall green plants. Just down the hill is her training school, children's home, and office. Lucky and her sisters are extraordinary women. I can't wait to share her story with you, but I'll let her do the talking.
Wednesday (today) morning I woke up and had breakfast then went on a walk around the lake and rice farms. As I was shooting pictures and video, I couldn't help but wonder how I was ever going to capture the sites, smells, and emotions I was experiencing. How do you tell a story when words just won't do? A part of me believes there is much more to share and learn then I had originally anticipated, and I don't think one trip is enough to cover it all.. :) life in Pokhara is very graceful and effortless yet there is a lot of work being done. I have met many wonderful people already and everyone moves to their own beat, yet the music of the community has stolen my heart.
I was given a tour of the Three Sisters building and met with their volunteer English teacher. Her and I had a long talk about life, passion, purpose, and Nepal. It's funny how all those ideas are brought out in conversation out here.. must be that free Himalayan air ;)
Elise and I were invited to Lucky's beautiful home to have lunch with her and her family. Meal time is a very important and intimate time here and no meal is spent alone. We ate like kings which they tend to do for every meal. And they are really creative with menu options and dessert. I really enjoy traveling because of the food, and I told Lucky that and she agreed there's nothing better then finding new friends and enjoying the culture's cuisine. I enjoy the energy and presence of Lucky and her sister. They are very much brilliant and strong women, but yet gentle and motherly.
After lunch Elise and I decided to rent mountain bikes and go exploring. We went to the south side of town where we ran into a riot in the streets.. so we turned around and wondered outside of the town into the villages and farms. Not to long after leaving the town the rain moved in and we were now riding through the hills of the villages in a nice cool afternoon shower.. or that's at least how it started. When we had gotten pretty far out of town, the thunder and lighting moved in and it was down pouring. Completely drenched and too far to make it back to our guest house, we sought shelter in a couple's small guest house and sat as the rain poured into the rice fields and roads. It was refreshing, wild, beautiful, and exactly what I needed to finally feel at home here. My body felt rest in the storm and even now as I sit in a coffee/cyber cafe and listen to the rain flood the streets I feel peace here, like this is a place I'm to belong to. Although I may be the only one in the town feeling that way.. even the cows are running for shelter and complaining about the rain ;)
Tomorrow I'm going to sit down with Lucky and some of the other women and interview them on the organization, life, and the past present and future of women in Nepal. She is amazing and so full of life and insight. I'm completely in awe of her simplicity and her heart to serve these women. We'll probably stay in Pokhara for a few more days and begin our trekking on Sunday. We've met some friends (one being from Colorado) who have just completed the Annapurna Circuit and have been telling us wonderful things about it that have me completely pumped to start exploring. Except for the stories about the leeches which have been brought up in conversation, especially now that the rains are hitting! The people I'm meeting both foreigners and the locals are what is making this journey so special. And I've been working on speaking Nepali, which is getting some great reactions, they are impressed.
So closing thought, I met a young man named Kissem, and he runs a local cafe called Anne's Cafe.. I was out on a walk and he joined me and was telling me about his family and his restaurant.. mero naam Anne ho! I was said to him.. and then he told me Anne was a boy's name and he named his place after his nephew and then laughed that my name was Anne. Can't win them all I guess!
I'm enjoying my time here very much and am gathering a lot of great footage. Lucky is going to take some of the video to Paris with her in July to share with some other women who are working in neighboring countries on women employment initiatives. I'm excited to be welcomed by these women to share my work and hope that it'll generate a long lasting partnership.
Pictures to follow I promise.. although this not having a phone or computer by my side all the time is quite liberating.. I think I'm going to call Pokhara home, I'll post my new address in the next blog ;)
Namaste
Anne
Elise and I eventually found the Three Sisters house and were invited to have a room in their guest house which is right outside the center of the town. The most exciting part of the day was finally meeting Lucky and her family. They live in a beautiful home on the hill of the mountain surrounded by wild tall green plants. Just down the hill is her training school, children's home, and office. Lucky and her sisters are extraordinary women. I can't wait to share her story with you, but I'll let her do the talking.
Wednesday (today) morning I woke up and had breakfast then went on a walk around the lake and rice farms. As I was shooting pictures and video, I couldn't help but wonder how I was ever going to capture the sites, smells, and emotions I was experiencing. How do you tell a story when words just won't do? A part of me believes there is much more to share and learn then I had originally anticipated, and I don't think one trip is enough to cover it all.. :) life in Pokhara is very graceful and effortless yet there is a lot of work being done. I have met many wonderful people already and everyone moves to their own beat, yet the music of the community has stolen my heart.
I was given a tour of the Three Sisters building and met with their volunteer English teacher. Her and I had a long talk about life, passion, purpose, and Nepal. It's funny how all those ideas are brought out in conversation out here.. must be that free Himalayan air ;)
Elise and I were invited to Lucky's beautiful home to have lunch with her and her family. Meal time is a very important and intimate time here and no meal is spent alone. We ate like kings which they tend to do for every meal. And they are really creative with menu options and dessert. I really enjoy traveling because of the food, and I told Lucky that and she agreed there's nothing better then finding new friends and enjoying the culture's cuisine. I enjoy the energy and presence of Lucky and her sister. They are very much brilliant and strong women, but yet gentle and motherly.
After lunch Elise and I decided to rent mountain bikes and go exploring. We went to the south side of town where we ran into a riot in the streets.. so we turned around and wondered outside of the town into the villages and farms. Not to long after leaving the town the rain moved in and we were now riding through the hills of the villages in a nice cool afternoon shower.. or that's at least how it started. When we had gotten pretty far out of town, the thunder and lighting moved in and it was down pouring. Completely drenched and too far to make it back to our guest house, we sought shelter in a couple's small guest house and sat as the rain poured into the rice fields and roads. It was refreshing, wild, beautiful, and exactly what I needed to finally feel at home here. My body felt rest in the storm and even now as I sit in a coffee/cyber cafe and listen to the rain flood the streets I feel peace here, like this is a place I'm to belong to. Although I may be the only one in the town feeling that way.. even the cows are running for shelter and complaining about the rain ;)
Tomorrow I'm going to sit down with Lucky and some of the other women and interview them on the organization, life, and the past present and future of women in Nepal. She is amazing and so full of life and insight. I'm completely in awe of her simplicity and her heart to serve these women. We'll probably stay in Pokhara for a few more days and begin our trekking on Sunday. We've met some friends (one being from Colorado) who have just completed the Annapurna Circuit and have been telling us wonderful things about it that have me completely pumped to start exploring. Except for the stories about the leeches which have been brought up in conversation, especially now that the rains are hitting! The people I'm meeting both foreigners and the locals are what is making this journey so special. And I've been working on speaking Nepali, which is getting some great reactions, they are impressed.
So closing thought, I met a young man named Kissem, and he runs a local cafe called Anne's Cafe.. I was out on a walk and he joined me and was telling me about his family and his restaurant.. mero naam Anne ho! I was said to him.. and then he told me Anne was a boy's name and he named his place after his nephew and then laughed that my name was Anne. Can't win them all I guess!
I'm enjoying my time here very much and am gathering a lot of great footage. Lucky is going to take some of the video to Paris with her in July to share with some other women who are working in neighboring countries on women employment initiatives. I'm excited to be welcomed by these women to share my work and hope that it'll generate a long lasting partnership.
Pictures to follow I promise.. although this not having a phone or computer by my side all the time is quite liberating.. I think I'm going to call Pokhara home, I'll post my new address in the next blog ;)
Namaste
Anne
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Namaste from Nepal
After a 17 hour nap on the plane, quick tour of beautiful Hong Kong, and a lot of hot tea & coffee, Elise and I finally made it to Nepal. We stayed two nights in the busy city of Kathmandu. Like clock work (even with jet lag) I awoke our first morning at 5:30 a.m. and looked out our window. Running across the roof was a baboon chasing birds.. I was definitely not in Colorado anymore!
Our first day in Kathmandu was spent traveling about the city. Wow. The culture and the people are absolutely beautiful. I must have walked miles all over the alleys and busy streets trying to wrap my head around their day-to-day life. We went and toured the historical Durbar Square and was able to observe their crazy bazaar and their beautiful spiritual practices. I felt though as if I was watching this all play out on a screen and not right in front of me. I feel as though I'm unable yet to fully immerse in this country and with these people. They have so much to teach me and I am ready to learn.
Elise and I decided to head out of Kathmandu after two days and head to Pokhara to prepare for our trek but most importantly to meet Lucky. And that is where I am now. We just unloaded from a long bus ride through the country side. The road was crazy busy with buses and cows, and the road laws in Nepal are nonexistent much like my experience in Haiti. Its best to just take a nap and hope when you wake up your bus isn't falling off the mountain from being run off the road. We did however blow a tire.. all in a day's experience!
This is a short post as we have to head out into the city to find the organization and a place to stay for the night. I'll post more, and hopefully some pictures when I'm able to.. I've taken about 500 so far. I'll leave you with this.. I feel at home in Nepal and know I'm here for much more then I can reason with now. My eyes are being opened to so much and I'm having a hard time sleeping because I want to see and hear and learn everything.
Nepali momo's are amazing by the way.. and so is the chai & naan =)
Best,
Anne
Our first day in Kathmandu was spent traveling about the city. Wow. The culture and the people are absolutely beautiful. I must have walked miles all over the alleys and busy streets trying to wrap my head around their day-to-day life. We went and toured the historical Durbar Square and was able to observe their crazy bazaar and their beautiful spiritual practices. I felt though as if I was watching this all play out on a screen and not right in front of me. I feel as though I'm unable yet to fully immerse in this country and with these people. They have so much to teach me and I am ready to learn.
Elise and I decided to head out of Kathmandu after two days and head to Pokhara to prepare for our trek but most importantly to meet Lucky. And that is where I am now. We just unloaded from a long bus ride through the country side. The road was crazy busy with buses and cows, and the road laws in Nepal are nonexistent much like my experience in Haiti. Its best to just take a nap and hope when you wake up your bus isn't falling off the mountain from being run off the road. We did however blow a tire.. all in a day's experience!
This is a short post as we have to head out into the city to find the organization and a place to stay for the night. I'll post more, and hopefully some pictures when I'm able to.. I've taken about 500 so far. I'll leave you with this.. I feel at home in Nepal and know I'm here for much more then I can reason with now. My eyes are being opened to so much and I'm having a hard time sleeping because I want to see and hear and learn everything.
Nepali momo's are amazing by the way.. and so is the chai & naan =)
Best,
Anne